Seafood Restaurants in Houston: I Didn't Think a Steakhouse Could Do Fish, Then I Ate Here

I don't trust fish at a steakhouse. Never have. It's always one sad salmon thing on the menu for whoever didn't want beef. Then a friend dragged me out last month and I ate my words, plus most of her branzino. So yeah, typing this up before I forget.

Steakhouse Fish Is Usually an Afterthought

Overcooked, drowned in butter, plated like the cook was annoyed. That's what I expected. I walked in already half rolling my eyes, which is a bad way to go to dinner but whatever. Being wrong about seafood restaurants in Houston is kind of fun though, I'll admit that.

The Gulf Is Right There

People forget this. We're not that far from the water, so fresh fish shouldn't be some fancy luxury here. When a kitchen actually uses that, you taste it right away. Clean, light, not tired. A place that blows it in this city doesn't get a second chance from me.

The Branzino

I order branzino everywhere now because it's hard to hide behind. Roasted with herbs, nothing crazy, and if they mess it up you know in one bite. This one came out moist with a little crisp on the skin. I finished it. Then I stole a piece off my friend's plate too, which is rude, but it was good.

Crudo First, Always

Yellowtail crudo to start. Cold, bright, kind of clean tasting, and you're not stuffed before the real food shows up. Raw fish tells on a sloppy kitchen fast. Nothing sloppy here, which surprised me, considering I'd just assumed the whole fish side would be filler.

River Oaks Dining Isn't as Snobby as It Sounds

I always pictured valet lines and people in sunglasses indoors. Some of that's true, sure. But river oaks dining has relaxed a lot, I wore a regular shirt and nobody looked at me funny. Service was on top of things without hovering over the table, which is harder to pull off than it sounds. Room felt calm, not precious.

What to Drink With It

Took me forever to figure this out. Heavy smoky cocktails run right over delicate fish. Go crisp, citrus, something bright. The Emerald Margarita, tequila lime agave, works weirdly well with raw fish. If you want whiskey instead, the Roasted Pecan Old Fashioned is the one people keep bringing up, it's nutty and smooth, and the spirits are infused in-house.

That Wine Room

Behind glass, over 1,400 bottles. Looks kind of ridiculous, in a good way. I can't tell a Bordeaux from a boxed red most days, so I just tell the server what I'm eating and ask what works. They've never been snotty about it. Napa, Bordeaux, whatever, they've got it, and there are tastings with the in-house sommelier now and then.

Go During Happy Hour First

Not sure if a place is worth it? Don't commit to a whole dinner. Signature cocktails are half price, beer's $2 off, wine by the glass is $3 off, mostly 3 to 6, and the social hour runs till around 7. Skillet bread and fried okra are good snacks while you decide. Hours move around sometimes so check before driving over.

For the Friend Who Hates Fish

Everybody has one. Steaks here are hand-cut, dry aged in-house, and cooked over wood and coal, so you get a smoky crust. There's lamb chops, a Kurobuta pork chop, charcoal chicken, and a griddle cheeseburger with fries I'd eat every Friday if I could. Nobody gets stuck with a lame salad. Matters when the group can't agree on anything.

The Dull Practical Stuff

Weekends fill up, so book ahead. Weeknights are quieter and you can actually hear the person across the table, which I care about way more now than I used to. Brunch is 11 to 3 on Saturday and Sunday. There's a private dining room too if you're planning a birthday or a work thing. Closed Mondays though. I found that out at a different restaurant once, standing outside at 6 p.m. hungry and dumb. Check first.

So Here's What I'd Do

Good fish isn't complicated. A kitchen that cares, stuff that tastes fresh, a room you can relax in, a drink that doesn't fight the food. That's pretty much it. If you want to try it, Fielding's Steak is at 3750 Westheimer Road in River Oaks. Go for happy hour, stay for dinner if the night's going well, and reserve online first on weekends because it fills up fast.

FAQs

Can a Steakhouse Really Do Good Seafood?
It Can If the Kitchen Cares. The Roasted Branzino and Yellowtail Crudo Are Both Solid, and They're Lighter Than the Steak Side of the Menu.

What Drink Goes Best With Fish?
Something Crisp and Bright Usually Works Better Than Anything Heavy or Smoky. The Emerald Margarita Is a Good Pick, or Ask the Server for a Light White Wine.

Is Happy Hour Worth It?
Mostly Yes. Half-Price Cocktails and Cheaper Beer and Wine Make It a Low-Risk Way to Try a Place Before a Full Dinner.

Do I Need a Reservation?
For Weekend Dinner or Brunch, Yes. Weeknights and Happy Hour Are Easier, but Booking Helps With Bigger Groups.